Farm Animals Archives - Misty Dawn Farm

Keeping Chickens 101 – The Basics

Here you’ll find everything you need to know about the basics of raising chickens. In this post I’ll go over the following:

-When to move chicks to the coop

-The coop

-When to switch from grower to layer feed

-Free range chickens

-The first egg

-Molting

Let’s get into Chickens 101…

This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a small commission, at no cost to you, if you make a purchase through a link

The Chick

This post will go over what you need to know to raise chickens. But if you’re still at the very beginning, in the brand-new chick stage, then you can check out my post here: Raising Chicks – 6 Tips for the Beginner where I go over the basics of that stage.

When to Move Chicks to the Coop

Chicks can’t regulate their own body temperature, so giving them a heat source for the right amount of time is important.

Typically, if they’re fully feathered (around 6 weeks old) and the outside temperature is above 65, then heat is no longer needed.

But moving the chicks from the brooder to the coop doesn’t have to wait that long. I will move my chicks into an outdoor space around 3-4 weeks of age. I make sure that the space has a draft free area where I can give them a heat source, and that it is securely enclosed from predators.

The Coop

Chicks will sleep on the ground, huddled together, until around 6-8 weeks old. At 8-10 weeks of age, they will need a roost provided.

Chickens don’t grip a perch like wild birds do. A good-sized flat surface is better. A 2×4, with the 4” side up, is perfect.

When making the roost, keep in mind that grown chickens will need about 8 inches of space per bird. Larger breeds will need 10 inches.

Nesting boxes need to be provided around 15 weeks of age. If you put them in the coop sooner than that, the chickens will start using them to roost on, and you’ll have nests full of poop.

The ratio is one nest box to every four hens.

When to Switch from Grower to Layer Feed

Chicks need a grower feed, with higher protein and lower calcium, for the first 13-15 weeks of life.

At this point, you’ll want to switch to a layer feed. Crumbles or pellets. Doing so now will start to provide the needed calcium and nutrients for beginning egg laying.

Free Range Chickens

I start to free range my chickens at 8-10 weeks old.

I will start by allowing them out an hour or two before dark. Keeping an eye on them. They will return to their familiar roost at dark, and you can close the door.

Gradually extend the time spent out, over the next few weeks.

If you have trouble with predators, you may not have the option of free ranging. In which case, a chicken tractor may be the way to go.

The First Egg

Most chickens will begin to lay eggs around 16-22 weeks.

Large breeds, such as the Jersey Giant and Brahmas, will mature slower, and it can be 6-8 months before they begin to lay.

The first eggs a chicken lays are small, and are called “pullet eggs”. A chicken will continue to lay smaller eggs for about 4 weeks. They will gradually get larger.

In the first year of laying, chickens will lay the most eggs of their lives. As the years go by, they will lay fewer eggs, until year 4-5 when they stop altogether.

Molting

Chickens will molt annually. This is a process they go through to replenish and replace their feathers.

The first adult molt will usually happen around 18 months of age. A molt can last anywhere from 8-12 weeks. Typically it starts in the late Summer.

Some chickens will have a “soft” molt, meaning that they lose feathers slowly and you can’t really tell it’s happening.

Some have a “hard” molt, in which the chicken will dramatically lose feathers and will appear very rough looking.

Chickens cannot lay eggs during a molt. Their body will be focusing its energy on replacing feathers. Once the process is complete, the egg laying will resume.

For God so loved the world that He gave His only begotten Son, that whosoever believes in Him should not perish but have everlasting life.
John 3:16

Categories: Farm Animals

6 Natural Ways to Keep a Healthy Flock

Are you looking for natural, inexpensive ways to keep your chickens healthy? Here is a list of some common foods that you can add to your flock’s diet for their overall health and wellness. Below I will go over each one and their benefits, and the best way to include them into your chicken’s diet.

Apple Cider Vinegar
Garlic
Oregano
Cinnamon
Turmeric
Lime

This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a small commission, at no cost to you, if a purchase is made through a link

Apple Cider Vinegar

ACV is my top go-to as immune support for chickens.

It not only boosts their immune systems, but aids the digestive system and contains vitamins, minerals and trace elements.

It also helps increase calcium absorption.

Add 1 tablespoon of ACV to 1 gallon of water, once a week. You can offer it as an additional water source, or just add it to their existing waterer.

I also give ACV to new chicks, for the first couple days. In smaller amounts. If you’re interested in how I raise healthy chicks, you can read my blog post on that here: Raising Chicks – 6 Tips for the Beginner

Garlic

Ah garlic, not only is it delicious, its superpowers are amazing. And it will do wonders for your flock.

Not only does it support the immune system, it’s also antibacterial, a natural wormer, helps prevent mites and parasites, AND will reduce the odor in your chicken coop.

It can be given fresh from the garden, crushed, free choice. Or you can sprinkle a little garlic powder on their feed a few times a week.

Oregano

Oregano is a natural antibiotic for chickens. It’s thought to help guard against some of the common illnesses, such as avian flu and infectious bronchitis.

You can give it to them fresh, straight from the garden. Or, if you have dried oregano, simply steep 2 tablespoons in 1 cup hot water, for about 10 minutes. After it’s cool, give directly to the chickens to drink.

You can also sprinkle a tablespoon of dried oregano over their feed a few times a week, for yearly immune support.

Cinnamon

A tasty little spice that packs a punch, cinnamon is a wonderful addition to your chicken’s diet.

It reduces inflammation, helps treat infection, is antibacterial, treats nasal congestion and coughing, and improves blood flow (which will also help prevent frostbite).

Just add a little ground cinnamon to your daily feed for all these amazing benefits.

Turmeric

Another great, multi-purpose spice is turmeric.

It is anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, an anti-oxidant, speeds healing, and also helps maintain healthy skin, eyes and brain functions.

Sprinkle a few teaspoons onto your chicken feed once or twice a week.

Lime

Using a garden lime for your chickens has a lot of benefits.

Around your coop it works as an insect repellent, and reduces dangerous bacteria. I like to sprinkle a thin layer of lime before adding more bedding to my coops.

When you provide lime as a dust bath, it will help prevent ticks, lice, mites and fleas. I like to offer my chickens a dust bath consisting of lime, wood ash and sand.

As an added benefit, chickens are likely to consume small amounts of the lime, which provides calcium.

I like to use this safe brand of lime for my chickens: First Saturday Lime

There are so many natural ways to help your flock stay healthy and happy!

For God so loved the world that He gave His only begotten Son, that whosoever believes in Him should not perish but have everlasting life.
John 3:16

Categories: Farm Animals

Top 5 Chicken Breeds to Start Your Flock

An egg is an egg, right? Does it even matter what breed of chicken it comes from? Technically, no. But different breeds produce different colors! Who doesn’t want a rainbow in their egg basket?!

Also, there are some breeds that do better in certain climates. So, let’s take a look at some of the top chickens available.

This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a small commission, at no cost to you, if you make a purchase through a link

The Easter Egger Chicken

Obviously, I’m starting here. Because of the rainbow! Easter eggers are not a specific breed of chicken, but rather a mix breed. And often this is used as a general term for chickens that lay shades of blue and aqua, to green and olive, and even sometimes pinkish.

There are pure breeds that lay these beautiful eggs, like Araucana and Ameraucana. And other specific mix breeds, such as Olive Egger.

These chickens are very cold hardy. However, they don’t lay often during the cold Winter months.

Easter Eggers are also very heat tolerant, and will lay most consistently during the Summer.

Easter Eggers are very friendly, docile birds. Plus, they’re beautiful, and you’ll find them in an array of colors and patterns.

Rhode Island Reds

The tried and true; the Rhode Island Red. This chicken is the top of the list for reliable egg production and hardiness in all climates.

They lay large brown eggs.

Rhode Island Reds tend to be very bossy chickens, and do best when free ranging or kept with their own kind. They will pick on smaller chickens, and can be mean to new additions.

However, if your goal is just year-round fresh eggs, a flock of these girls will get it done.

There are a few variations of this breed. I currently have a few Golden Sexlinks, which is a mix breed of Rhode Island Red and Rhode Island White.

Buff Orpington Chicken

The Orpington is a dual-purpose chicken, bred for both eggs and meat. They lay large brown eggs. This breed I’ve only raised for layers, so I can’t speak to their meat. But for eggs, this is one of the best chickens. They’re both cold and heat hardy. And they lay abundantly.

The Buff Orpington is a gentle, quiet, easy to care for bird. Great for the first-time chicken keeper.

Because of their gentle nature, they don’t do well when kept with more bossy breeds, like the Rhode Island Red. However, they make great flock mates with the next bird on my list…

Black Copper Marans

Y’all. These chickens lay the most beautiful, dark, chocolate brown eggs. And the dark speckles! There’s nothing like them.

Copper Maran hens are very docile, but keep in mind that the roosters are not as laid back. They tend to challenge any and all other roosters, and even people at times.

These chickens do well in all climates, but lay a bit less frequently during the Winter.

The Polish Chicken

Ok, this chicken is definitely not the best egg layer. But hear me out. These girls have amazing personalities, and they are so fun to keep around. That crest of feathers on the top of their head makes them a little funny looking, and their awkwardness is adorable.

Polish chickens lay white eggs. And they don’t tolerate wet weather very well. These do best in warmer climates.

But for the first-time chicken keeper, adding a Polish to your flock is not something you will regret. Trust me.

Bonus Chicken – The Silkie

Alright, I know I said top 5 breeds. But I had to add one more. The Silkie.

These fluffy, sweet, huggable little chickens will make you fall in love. They’re just so cute and squishy! And they love people. They’ll follow you around and “talk” to you, how precious is that? And it’s one of the few breeds that actually like being held.

They lay small, light brown to white eggs. Their fluffy feathers can be shades of gray and tan, to black and white.

Silkies do not tolerate extreme climates, very hot or cold. They’re delicate, and need a little extra care. But worth it, without a doubt.

If you’re ready to get started, check out my how-to post about raising your new chicks here Raising chicks

For God so loved the world that He gave His only begotten Son, that whosoever believes in Him should not perish but have everlasting life.
John 3:16

Categories: Farm Animals

Raising Chicks – 6 Tips for the Beginner

Raising chicks is a lot easier than you might think. By following these few simple tips, the flock of your dreams can easily become a reality. But be careful, chicken math is real…

This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a small commission, at no cost to you, if you make a purchase through a link

1. First step to raising chicks – The Brooder

Rubber storage tub being used as chick brooder

The very first thing you need for raising chicks is a space to put them. This pen is usually referred to as a brooder. It can be almost anything, actually. I have used a rabbit cage (with small wire), a large plastic tote, a cardboard box, a wooden box… Some work much better than others. There are a few things to keep in mind.

Chicks grow quickly. The area they live in will need to be completely enclosed by 2-3 weeks of age, because they begin jumping up and can easily hop out of a box.

The pen will need to be well ventilated, and fairly easy to clean.

Raising chicks requires a heat source. I’ll go over that next. But keep that in mind when choosing your pen. Plastic can melt, cardboard can catch on fire…

Here is a convenient option from Amazon. An animal playpen that can be used as a chick brooder. I personally haven’t used one, but I have friends who have, and they liked the ease of it. Amazon Animal Pen

2. Next up – Heat

Heat is very important, because chicks cannot regulate their own body temperature. They thrive at 95 degrees Fahrenheit (or 35 degrees Celsius) from hatching to age 2 weeks. However, they can also get too warm. In an ideal environment, they have a warm area on one side of the brooder, with plenty of space to get away from the heat source.

The source of heat is also very important. There are many types to choose from, but some are much safer than others. A chick heat plate is a wonderful option, but may be somewhat expensive. Here is one from Amazon that I recommend: Heat Plate

A heat lamp can be dangerous if not used properly, but is much cheaper.

Personally, I use a lamp. And I’m going to tell you why and how.

First, I use a lamp because I cannot justify spending extra on something (a heat plate) that I will use once, for 6-8 weeks. And maybe again in the future, maybe not.

Second, I use it because I know I can do so safely. I ensure the bulb is new, the lamp isn’t near anything flammable, and it is secure. I not only use the provided clamp to attach it, but I also tie it into place with a rope/string.

These are the lamps that I use, if you decide to go this route: Heat Lamp And the bulbs: Bulbs

If you’re worried about it, please use a plate or pad. But like I said, there are different options. Pick what’s best for you.

Chicks will need a heat source for 6-8 weeks, depending on the weather. Once it is consistently above 50 degrees, and the chicks are fully feathered, providing heat is no longer necessary.

3. Bedding for your chicks

Bedding is important for raising brand new chicks. A slippery floor can cause Spraddle (or Splay) Leg. That is a condition where chicks leg muscles do not develop correctly, because they cannot grip the surface. Things like straw, hay or newspaper can be too slippery, especially when wet.

The ideal bedding for a chick is large, pine shavings. They absorb well, the chicks can’t eat it, it provides a steady surface for walking on, helps hold heat, and cleans up easily.

You can find pine shavings at your local farm or hardware store. Or on Amazon: Premium Poultry Bedding

4. Hydration

Water is another important part of raising chicks. Because they stay so warm, they can easily get dehydrated.

A chick waterer is the best method. They are shallow enough that your chicks won’t drown.

The first few days, its good to add a teaspoon of sugar and a dash of Apple Cider Vinegar to their water. Be sure to replace the water daily, so it’s fresh. The sugar gives them energy, and the vinegar helps boost their tiny immune systems.

Once they reach a week old, I will continue to add the vinegar to the water, but only once or twice a week.

When your chicks are a few days old, they will begin to scratch around in their woodchips/pine shavings. This often results in water full of soaked chips and no available drinking water for the chicks. At this time, I like to get a piece of 2×4 or a brick to set the waterer on. Leaving enough room for the chicks to stand on the wood or brick, if they can’t reach the water.

This is the type of water container I like to use: Chick Waterer

5. Feeding your chicks

This one is pretty simple. Chicks need a “chick starter” crumble feed. Basically any brand or kind will do, as long as it’s for chicks. I prefer to use a medicated chick feed for the first couple weeks. Then I switch to non-medicated. Make sure their food is constantly available to them for the first several weeks of life.

You can find chick feed at your local farm or hardware store, or online.

6. Pasty Butt

The biggest cause of death in new chicks is Pasty Butt. This is a condition where the vent area is blocked, preventing excretion of waste. So, basically, poop dried on their butt and now they can’t poop any more. It is caused by stress and dehydration.

But it’s not hard to prevent or fix. First, make sure you’re checking those fluffy butts at least once a day. Adding the sugar to the water encourages drinking and helps fend off dehydration issues. If you notice a build up starting, carefully remove it. I use warm water and a q-tip to gently wipe it away.

To recap… To raise your chicks, you need…

A brooder, or place to raise the chicks.
A heat source
Proper bedding
Water
Food
Keeping them alive

Raising chicks is pretty easy. You’re raising pets that will eventually provide you breakfast, how cool is that?

If you want to know what breeds I recommend starting with, I have a blog post about that here: Top 5 Chicken Breeds to Start Your Flock

For God so loved the world, that He gave His only begotten Son, that whosoever believes in Him should not perish, but have everlasting life. John 3:16